Hand Sewing Information- Stitches Used

This chart shows which stitches were used on various garments I have made, and shows where they can be documented.

Garment Type of stitch Source of documentation
T+C Norlund Hagg
Wool Gown Running stitch yes yes yes
Hem Stitch yes yes yes
Reinforced running yes yes yes
Buttonhole yes yes  
Linen Under dress Running Stitch yes yes yes
Hem stitch yes yes yes
Felling Seams   yes yes
French seams     yes
Overcast Stitch   yes yes
Hoods Running Stitch yes yes yes
Hem stitch yes yes yes
Reinforced running yes yes yes
Overlapping edge seam yes   yes
Hose Overlapping edge seam yes   yes
Back stitch yes yes yes
Overcast stitch   yes yes
Hem Stitch yes yes yes

Hand Sewing Information-Time Required

I calculated how long it would take to make various garments if they were completed entirely by hand.

Greenland patterned gowns

Consist of: 11 long seams, plus gores at CF and CB, plus sleeves
Total: equivalent to about 14 long seams

Wool Gown

One seam took 0.5 hours to sew in running stitch, with occasional backstitches in the fitted area for strength.
14 seams * 0.5 hours = 7 hours to complete a gown with hand stitches instead of by machine.

Approximate times for the other hand sewing tasks on this type of dress:
Neckline facing 2 h
Sleeve and Center Front openings 6 h
Card weaving (on CF, and sleeves) 4 h Buttonholes (CF and Sleeves) 10 minutes each * 60 = 10 h Button attachment 3h
Hem- skirt 1.5 h
Hem- sleeves .3h
Total handwork, if made totally by hand = approximately 34 h

I sew most of the seams by machine reducing handwork time by 6.5 h
Actual Handwork time = approximately 27.5 h

Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern making, preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general fussing. :)

Linen Under dress

One seam took 0.5 hours to sew in running stitch, with occasional backstitches in the fitted area for strength.
Because linen frays, the edges need to be rolled in. This required an additional 0.75 hours.
14 seams * 1.25 h =17.5 h to complete a gown with hand stitches instead of by machine.

Approximate times for the other hand sewing tasks on this type of dress:

Neckline facing 2 h
Overcast armholes (French seams are impossible on curved seams) 50 min for both = .9 h
Hem- skirt 1.5 h
Hem- sleeves .3 h
Total handwork, if made totally by hand = approximately 22 h

I sew most of the seams by machine reducing handwork time by 15.5 h
Actual Handwork time = approximately 6.5 h

Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern making, preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general fussing. :)

Hoods

Basic sewing in running stitch took about 1 h
Tacking down seams (for flatness and strength) using running and hemming stitches: about 3 hours
Hems took 0.6 h
Face hole finishing 1 h
Total Handwork for each Hood, approximately 4.6 h.

Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern making, preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general fussing. :)

Hose - Wool

Feet are sewn in overlapping edge stitch- about 2 hours
Back seam sewn in backstitch- about .75 hours
Total time for a pair of hose, approximately 2.75 h

Hose- Linen

Feet are sewn in overlapping edge stitch- about 2 hours
Back seam sewn in backstitch- about .75 hours
Overcast back seams- about 1 hour
Hem top edge of hose- about .75 hours
Total time for a pair of hose, approximately 4.5 h

Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern making, preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general fussing. :)

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